🤑 Aluminim Roof Coatings ?'s - Roof Forum - The Inspector's Journal

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BLACK JACK SILVER-SEAL FIBERED ALUMINUM REFLECTIVE ROOF COATING * gallons *Coverage approximately 50 square feet per gallon.


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blackjack silver seal 300

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Black Jack Silver Seal Fibered Aluminum Reflective Roof Coating (A-​30); Black Jack Silver-seal Fibered Aluminum Reflective Roof Coating.


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blackjack silver seal 300

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Visit the Home Depot to buy Black Jack 1-Gallon Roof and Foundation Liquid Asphalt Coating 5 Gal. White Seal Elastomeric Roof Coating.


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blackjack silver seal 300

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Black Jack® Silver Seal is a liquid applied, coating that forms a reflective and protective finish to roofs. This blend of asphalt and aluminum.


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blackjack silver seal 300

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Black Jack® Silver Seal is a liquid applied, coating that forms a reflective and protective finish to roofs. This blend of asphalt and aluminum forms a bright.


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blackjack silver seal 300

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apply a prime coat of Gardner or Black Jack fibered asphalt roof coating. Brush clean all cracks, holes and damaged or rusted areas with a wire brush. Repair.


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blackjack silver seal 300

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apply a prime coat of Gardner or Black Jack fibered asphalt roof coating. Brush clean all cracks, holes and damaged or rusted areas with a wire brush. Repair.


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blackjack silver seal 300

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This Site Might Help You. RE: Should I use Black Jack Silver Seal Fibered Aluminum Roof Coating on my RV rubber roof? Source(s): black jack silver seal.


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Fibered Aluminum Reflective Roof Coating GL, Black Jack Silver Seal - No. A


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Visit the Home Depot to buy Black Jack 1-Gallon Roof and Foundation Liquid Asphalt Coating 5 Gal. White Seal Elastomeric Roof Coating.


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blackjack silver seal 300

There are 2 turbines 20 feet apart, no gabel vents, and very small crawl space under peak of roof little attic room. It's peeling in the corners because of the flashing material. I told her not to do it, called my younger brother and told him to get down there, got on a plane and flew down there. My fear is that it may accelerate mod-bit and seam detioration, although it shouldn't as it's alkaline based. Also need to wear mask, googles and gloves as it has silica in it. A rough guess in roofing squares is The coatings coverage is 2 gallons per 1 roof square sq. Mod bit doesn't weld to aluminum worth a darn. It works. The roof looks to be in good shape other than alligatoring at the peak and a few other small areas, and a few areas where the cap sheet is lifting up from the drip edge. Is there an "attic" in there? However, the local ABC roofing supply company has advised me that alligatoring is a sign of the roofs near end and suggested that I can three course it with mesh and cement topped with granules to hopefully get more life out of it. So, now I know the answer to the question that was eating at me. In four days we stripped that old roof using the same stuff they use to strip the paint off of aluminum aircraft skin, burnished it, taped up all of the seams with acrylic-faced peel-n-seal, and then went over it with several coats of a white acrylic coating. I am moderately handy and leaning a lot about roofing materials and issues through great sites as this and others around the web. Ponding area will need to be done annually. Florida sun will cook stuff quickly, but 9 years should still have some life in it. I e-mailed the guy and he said it lasted 2 years and through 2 winters and may have been more but had a new roof put on. To clarify: are you recommending I purchase, install and double prime the drip edge Keynar now, then lift and reattach the existing cap sheet to it using adhesive cement. The white reflects well and keeps her home cooler than it used to be. Thanks again for your responses Kurt. All feedback and suggestions much appreciated. It formed a hard acrylic skin that was very durable. Well, almost forever. Possibly go with metal througout or in combination. I have been searching through many sites and posts to try and make a sound decision. Personally, I love mod bit. You want minimum. I didn't know peel and seal has been around so long. All that magic membrane that keeps the water out also keeps the water in; I have a hard time imagining a single turban vent does much, but I could be wrong. My son and I just finished peel and seal ing the aluminum patio roof, 3-coursed an area of concern and asphalt primed some of the top of exposed drip edge and cap sheet to ready it for adhesive cement. You're doing the best thing, i. Looks like I have a little bit more fascia and soffits to fix, but I can"t complain too much as it could be worse after 10 years.{/INSERTKEYS}{/PARAGRAPH} I hope it holds up, so far the seams are good just a few areas of the drip edge are an issue. In the process of applying peel and seal to seams on insulated aluminum patio roof. I'd put that in the basic half-assed install with the usual inadequacies. Pics attached. The gatoring looks too small to be an issue, unless there's active leaks. I called Karnak and Henry and they both recommended doing a rubberized asphalt based fibered aluminum coating. Hopefully, it will help it last longer. I will also apply 12" peel and seal where the flat roof adjoins the aluminum patio roof. I have a few questions I hope to get answers to. The roof has minor water curling issues in the corners 2 foot extended eves , but no leaks within the home. Reading through some of the post here concerning flat roofs there is mention that alligatoring isn't necessarily an issue as long as there are no flaps and it isn't through the base ply. The also said don't bother coating it as is has the embedded granules and those help reflect heat. What's the roof structure? When it comes time for a new roof I want to add a pitched slope over the flat deck. He cleans the dirt film off, rinses it off with a garden hose and it's good for another year. Unfortunately, that is the dilema as there is no garauntee it will. Alligatoring rarely means anything bad; it means someone slopped on too much tar. I told my son the white peel and seal we laid down should last about 15 years, if it goes 35 it will most likely outlive me. I had a few roofers out for estimates on the repair pics I posted, they said that the roof decking is attached much better than newer homes and the wood is of much better quality as well. Most likely is peel and stick cap sheet over a mechanical or peal base sheet. When the rest of the thing collapses from old age that roof will probably still be pretty good. I have posted on other sites and read others that posted similar questions concerning roof coatings. My first take is the roofing company is attempting to trade on mythology. Personally, I'd wait 'til I did the roof. Probably over-kill but at this point I am settled on function vs. The interior of my home is approximatley sq. Reflective coatings would work here in all the little cracks and crazes you can't even see; UV still gets in there and breaks down the material. It's easy. She has a handy guy climb up there once a year with a mop, a bucket of water and some spic-n-span. The wood looks good from underneath viewed from inside no ceiling the attached garage. Her roof was leaking. I guess it's been about four or five years and she hasn't had any trouble with it. Yes, I know the naysayers, give them some props, but my experience tells me UV inhibiting coatings work, and common sense says silver reflective coatings have to be better than black. Roofers and reps I have spoken with said that a good asphalt based fibered aluminum coating should last 3 to 5 years in Florida. Yes, the granules reflect most of it, but in terms of area, there's probably some good percentage of area still exposed that doesn't have granule. Click to Enlarge. My home is in the Tampa Bay area of Florida. We bought the stripper from an aviation maintenance supplier and the peel-n-seal and big five gallon buckets of that acrylic from a place that provides supplies to companies that do services on mobile homes. What about venting? Double prime this stuff, and it'll hold forever. Or, are you recommending that when it's time for a new roof? Recent eves repair was done using Polyglass polyfex peel and stick modbit cap sheet over asphalt primed existing roof with old roof cut back 18 inches from edge. Mixed responses for and against and for me it is value added extended roof life and asthetics versus initial and possible future cost of coating. Since the initial peel-n-seal used on the seams was about 35 years old when we stripped it and she's in her 80's, she wasn't too concerned about longevity of the stuff we applied but I think it's goint to hold up at least as long as the original. I can imagine reflective coatings helping a lot; they work. Please share your recommendation for type of new roofing. When I bought the home it had a tar and gravel roof and I hated mowing and trimming over pebbles that had fallen from the roof, so I went with modbit and glad I did. I can see where aluminum coating may work well with non-granulated cap sheet, but for granulated I can't see it helping much and would take a lot more to cover compared to non-granulated. The roof is 9 years old low slope that was initially installed using mechanically fastened single ply base sheet with hot-mopped adhered granulated SBS mod-bit cap sheet. I don't want to sink money into coatings that may not extend the life of the roof. I have read through several roofing post and answers and I am very impressed with knowledgeable members here. Sorry for the delay. I would actually like to coat it for two reasons a UV protection and. New wood sold at big box store here in Floida is total crap for the most part. Unfortunately, there are few reviews on those products. I understand about trapping mositure and have read some post about elastomerics causing issues. {PARAGRAPH}{INSERTKEYS}By omagic12 , December 6, in Roof Forum. I also used it near the peak over the alligatoring and will evaluate it every 6 months to see if has any benefit. Trouble is lately I feel I might be over-thinking the process through to much Internet researching. Plan to attach it to flat deck's drip edge facing and cover seams and old peel and seal on aluminum patio roof to form an L-shape avoiding any gaps. It'll work OK for some number of years. I'll modify that to, it'll weld sorta ok if you double prime it and go overtime on getting the welds tight, but I'd still be watching it every year. It holds up remarkably well if you keep the UV off it. You sound like a hands on sort The beauty of mod bit is it's accessibility; if you know your way around a torch and trowel, you can repair it easily and forever. Another more expensive option is Hydro-stop or Soy Expandothane.